Let me wish you a happy Vesak! Thursday this week was one of the most important Poya days or full moon Buddhist festivals, in the Singhalese year, the Vesak Poya. Buddha very considerately made sure that he was born, died and gained enlightenment on the same day and, to top that, he made sure it was a full moon! Singhalese celebrate the festival by adorning every building with paper lanterns that turn formerly drab places into beautiful, if slightly kitsch, structures. In true Sri Lankan style, there are 2 days of public holidays so it seemed rude not to make it into a week's holiday.
Sam, a fellow VSO volunteer, and I, set out last Sunday in true Buddhist Pilgrim style, to climb Adam's Peak. At 2243m, Sri Pada (the local name) is the 3rd highest peak in Sri Lanka, but it is revered as it is purported to have a footprint of Buddha at the top. The Christians tried to take over the mountain for themselves by claiming it's the footprint of St Thomas; the Muslim's claim it belongs to Adam who set foot here after being cast out of heaven; the Hindus say it was created by Shiva. So, all in all, it's a pretty sacred place. I just wish they all could have chosen a mountain with an easier climb. We started the climb at 0245 in order to make it up the 5,500 steps for what is described as the most incredible sunrise. We enjoyed rain all the way up and it wasn't to be our auspicious day as we were greeted by thick cloud cover and a biting wind! The footprint isn't even visible after all that. I really suffered on the way back down with my legs turning to jelly. Sam, who has summited Everest, made it down like a mountain goat so I felt extremely embarrassed to be hobbling so badly. It has knocked my legs out for most of the week - well that's my excuse for not doing much!
In order to have a bit of luxury after the climb, we spent the next 3 nights in the most amazing tea plantation bungalows. There is a company called "Tea Trails" who have converted 4 former Plantation manager's bungalows into exquisite 5-6 bedroom villas complete with butler, swimming pool, and total colonial glamour. Although it was relatively pricey, everything was included - all drinks, all food, laundry, tea factory tour. I'm not sure how much profit they made out of Sam and I as we took full advantage of the free bar and delicious wine. I've really missed wine since I've been here as it's very expensive normally. You're left with "lion beer", the local tipple, which is an OK lager but gets a bit boring after a while. Suffice it to say that the Gin and Tonics and Wine went down very well and now I've vowed that June is an alcohol-free month! The villas (we spent a night in 3 out of the 4) are set in working tea estates so you're surrounded by the ubiquitous tea pickers overlooking the reservoir - picture postcard perfect. To top it all, it's cool enough to wear a fleece. I can't believe how excited I got to be able to wear a fleece again! Unfortunately (fortunately) my jeans are too big to wear now so I couldn't get the pleasure of wearing them too.
After 3 nights ruining our livers, we headed on the train East to Haputale. The train line is a British legacy and is the most incredible feat of engineering over the ridges of the hill country. At times there are sheer cliffs on either side of the tracks. Haputale is a sleepy town in the hills and the jumping off spot to visit Lipton's Seat named after the Scot, Sir Thomas Lipton, who put tea on the map. We walked up to his view point on top of an escarpment overlooking his factory and what feels like the whole world spread out at your feet. We climbed early to get ahead of the cloud cover and, as if with an alarm clock, the mist rolled in at 10am covering everything, just as we'd been warned.
I headed back to Galle today on a long 6 hour bus ride. I was lucky enough to get a direct bus but was unlucky enough to have to stand for half of it. I'm getting used to these long journeys here in Sri Lanka. Even though the distances aren't really that far, the roads are so bad that everything takes forever. I've got into the habit of listening to books on my Ipod which is a great way to pass the time people watching, watching the view, and not getting bus-sick from reading a book with the constant slamming of breaks and hairpin bends in the road. I'm glad to be home now and have a day tomorrow (Sunday) to sort myself out before I crack on with things at work. I really hope that work improves when I get back. I've decided to bite of small chunks to try to feel like I'm achieving things as the list of potential "to dos" is depressingly long. I think the break will help me see things with a clearer perspective.
Until next time, happy Vesak.
No comments:
Post a Comment