Last Days in Sri Lanka

It's with very mixed emotions that I write this final blog marking the last days of my year here in Sri Lanka. Yesterday was my last day at the Chamber and was filled with meetings firstly with the Directors and then with the staff. I was presented with both an official plaque, a beautiful jewel encrusted ebony elephant, and some wonderful hand-made gifts from the staff. Thank yous are very formal in Sri Lanka. The traditional approach is to be specific with why your saying "Thank You" so I needed to make sure I followed suit. Equally, when presents are given, the traditional Sri Lankan approach is not to open them in front of the giver. This, I suppose, has some benefits because at least you don't need to practise your Oscar-winning actress face of joy when in fact you're receiving something quite ugly. I was incredibly touched by all the kind words and gifts, especially those that had been made.

The last month has been extremely busy with Dad arriving at the end of January for a trip first to the hill country and then spending time here in Galle. He and I are pictured here at an event during the Galle Literary Festival. The town was transformed into a buzzing honey pot of tourists, both international and from Colombo, who flocked to listen to many big names such as Jung Chang ("Wild Swans"), Adichie ("Purple Hibiscus" & "Half a Yellow Sun"), McIneray ("Bright Lights, Big City") and Candace Bushnell ("Sex in the City"). The Festival is a mixture of 2 types of events: traditional interviews on a platform in front of up to 100 people, and more intimate dinners or lunches where about 20 people per Author. The first event we went to was a recorded programme for the World Service BBC Forum which featured 3 women being interviewed about post-Civil war societies. Things got quite heated when some members of the audience accused one of the speakers, Sunila, a Human Rights Activist, that she was "the problem" and that there are no human rights issues in Sri Lanka. It should be posted as a podcast tomorrow and I'll be interested to hear how they edit the criticisms before putting it on air.

It was refreshing to be able to see Sri Lanka through Dad's eyes while he was here. It reinforced to me why it is such an incredible country. The amount of variety across the country: amazing beaches, stunning mountains, safaris, temples, etc. The food it delicious. The people are incredibly hospitable and when they smile their faces just light up even when their smiles are toothless or reddened from chewing Betel Nut.

The side that tourists see, however, is different from the layer that I've started to understand whilst being here. I am worried for Sri Lanka because, despite it's potential highlighted above, it's moving towards a virtual dictatorship. It's government is aligning itself to powers such as Iran and China. It's journalism is one of the most controlled in the world. Within 10-15 years it will have the highest proportion of aging population in Asia. The Tamil and Muslim people are not being treated as equals by the Sinhalese leadership. Indeed it was announced in December that the national anthem would no longer be sung in both languages but now just in Sinhalese. From a business point of view, Sri Lanka is at least 10-12 years behind Asia in the use of technology. It's vast natural resources are exported but with limited value-add done in Sri Lanka which reduces the sources of income for the country. I hope with all my heart that Sri Lanka develops into a strong democratic and inclusive nation that becomes a competitive economic centre in Asia.

I am sure I will come back to Sri Lanka in the future to see friends, visit the north which, while I've been here has not been accessible to foreigners, and to see how the country is developing. I would encourage anyone who hasn't been here before to visit. You will have a wonderful holiday. Just think twice if you're thinking about buying property or starting a business here. The frustrations that I've faced this year will then become very clear to you!! But please don't let me put you off ....!